Editor’s note: many of you will remember our former contributor, Andrew Littleton, famous for his reviews of OKC’s tastiest and shadiest restaurants. This review was written by Andrew before his move to Nashville but never published until now. I have added impressions of my own to this review as well.

I’ve been meaning to write about Barry’s Grill for months now.  Barry’s is nestled along that shady strip of North May that sports pawn shopping, tobacco, “herb” shops, and “adult” shopping.  Sure, Barry’s has a lot of qualities that constitute shady dining, and could in fact be called shady.  I’m not going to make it a “Shady Restaurant of the Month,” however.  First off, there are shadier spots with equally good burgers, and ever since they fixed the hole in the wall from an apparent confused driver it has become much less shady.  Barry’s does, however, serve a pretty good meal in a convenient location for a quick lunch. They also feature quite possibly the largest outdoor burger sign in all of Oklahoma City (see picture).

Barry’s Grill has the look of a typical neighborhood hamburger joint with a big, ugly green awning declaring that they serve old fashioned burgers, window paint begging you to try a mushroom burger, plus the aforementioned giant burger sign. However, they are mysteriously absent of the lingering smell of burgers in the air like many other burger joints in town. In fact, inside you don’t smell much either, which is kind of weird. They also have these huge faded pictures of tropical paradise on the walls inside.  Makes me wonder if this place used to be something else before Barry bought it.  If you know about this, please let us know in the comments.

At Barry’s, you sit in mismatched tables and chairs, and throw your food away in the biggest trash cans I have ever seen.  Plus, they share a building with a pawn shop and an adult novelty store.  Say, maybe this place is a little more shady than I first thought.

Part of the reason I have not reviewed Barry’s yet is because nothing in particular really stands out here.  They make good, old-fashioned burgers in a variety of forms plus hand cut fries and other grilled sandwiches.  It’s not the best burger in town by any means, but every time I eat here I hear the voice of Jules in Pulp Fiction declare “That IS a tasty burger.”

Barry’s is not an onion burger.  You can ask for a grilled onion burger, but his specialty seems to be just regular griddle-fried burgers with raw onion slices and garnishes.  The patties here are more along the lines of a typical thin onion burger style patty, not the big, thick, juicy variety that Nic serves. Still, the flavor is good, and the price isn’t too bad.  A meal here will cost 6 to 9 bucks depending on how many patties you get, how big of a drink you get, and whether you split fries or tater tots with someone else. They also offer daily special “baskets” with come with fries (or tots) and a drink in the range of $7. Problem is, there is only one basket special available each day. You can see the daily specials, and the rest of their menu, on their website.

Barry’s, like nearly every other burger joint in town, makes hand cut fries.  Here is my complaint about the hand cut fries in town.  Everyone, except for Nic’s, serves up a flimsy, brown french fry.  Flavor isn’t terrible, but texture is horrible.  The thing is, no one else seems to care.  Everyone always goes, “ooh, hand cut fries.” But this isn’t necessarily a good thing if you don’t have time to double fry them to get that golden-brown, crispy texture.  Again, Nic’s somehow turns out a fry that is golden-brown and delicious without double frying or burning his fries.  This may be one of the 7 culinary wonders of Oklahoma City.  Anyhow, if you like these flimsy brown fries, you will love Barry’s.  Apparently most people in town do, so this is probably not a problem. Of course, Barry’s tots are another option and they are much crispier.

If you are looking for a pretty good, convenient burger, Barry’s Grill is a good place to go. It may not be drop dead amazing like Nic’s, but it’s still nice to have a handful of spots like Barry’s in your OKC culinary quiver to pull out when your co-workers can’t decide where to go for lunch. Oh, and Barry’s takes credit cards which can really come in handy.

Check out Barry’s for yourself and let us know what you think in the comments below.

By now the word is out that my days as shady writer for eataroundokc.com have come to an end.  I have decided it would be fitting to end my shady posts where I started them — on SW 29th street, almost literally next door to Sydney’s, the one that started it all.

This review is about the best Mexican-style tamales in town.  I say that with absolutely no reservations. No ”I think,” no “possibly,” — absolutely no trepidation.  I speak with confidence because I believe I have eaten at every authentic-ish Mexican restaurant on the south side of Oklahoma City and, unfortunately, at my fair share of Okla-Mex places in town as well.

Before I get to talking about Tamales, I would like to offer a brief homage to SW 29th street.

Ever since the day I had a $3 breakfast for lunch at Sydney’s and helped to unplug the fan so they could plug in the cash register to complete my purchase, I fell in love with this stretch of road.  Sure, there have been moments of fear. Like the time the drug dealer dudes started ramming their $40,000 tricked-out Cadillacs like they were bumper cars. Or, the time the meth lady accused me of stealing her car (my custom Volkswagen Beetle) and then chased me back to my office. Or, of course, the time I ate at the Golden Touch Grill.  But those moments are fleeting as I think of all the great food.  Flautas and enchiladas at Los Desvelados, dollar tacos at Max Burger, the burger I got carded to eat at the place that turned out to be a shady beer bar, and the time my friend Dirk nearly died from the heat after shouting “muy caliente el diablo!” about how hot he wanted his pork chile verde from the place across the street from Los Desvelados.

Yes, I have many fond memories of SW 29th street, and I leave you with one final recommendation.

Tamales may well have a more complete name, but I’m not sure (editor’s update: since the time of publication, we have learned the official name of this restaurant is actually “Tamales El Patio”). There is a bit of a language barrier.  I asked once what hours they were open and got a “yes we are open, you like tamales?”  To which I replied, “As a matter of fact I do!”  So this I know — they are open seven days a week for lunch and at least until 6 or 7 or so.  I say this 6 or 7 deal because I have sent many people there after work to take a dozen home for dinner.  These tamales pair especially well with the marinated flank steak you can purchase at the mercado across the street if you want a complete meal.  They also serve menudo on the weekends.  I bet it’s awesome, but I haven’t tried it.

The menu consists of tamales, chocolate covered bananas (with sprinkles), and nachos.  They also serve raspados (Mexican snow cones).  I have only had the tamales, so you will have to supply your own reviews the other other offerings in the comments. I’m not big on raspudas or chocolate covered bananas, sprinkles or no sprinkles.

You order your tamales by the dozen, spicy or . . . uhm . . . not spicy. A dozen tamales costs $13. The spicy pack a punch, as they are full of chopped jalapenos, but they are, by far, my favorite.  These tamales are silky, moist, perfectly steamed, and by no means dried-out gritty corn mush pockets like you would get at most places in town.  In fact, I have had many people who don’t even like tamales say these are great.  The problem is, these people probably had their first and only tamale experience from Taco Bueno.

Take my advice, block out past memories of fast food tamales and Okla-Mex tamales, go get a dozen of these, take them back to work (they will stay hot, trust me), and go change the lives of your co-workers.  They really are that good. I work with a large number of people from Austin who swear there is nothing close to these down there, and they are a good seven hours closer to Mexico than us.  The door to the back room is usually cracked open where you can see a lady with a stack of corn husks rolling up and steaming them as fast as she can go.  It may bring tears to your eyes, but fight through the emotions and yell out, “One dozen tamales . . . uh . . . spicy!”  It works every time.

Well, there’s not much more to say about Tamales El Patio, so let me just say this. It’s been awesome, and humbling, to see how our shady reviews have changed the dynamic of these deserving restaurants and brought them patrons that might have never ventured into them before.  I have had owners of a few of these places come out and give me hugs. I’ve seen the comments as our faithful readers give great feedback on these shady wonders. Recently, I’ve even seen a couple of these spots hit the national food scene on TV.  The only negative has been watching some of my favorite spots become so popular that they are hard to get into now.

Thanks, Oklahoma City, for all the shady memories. I can’t wait to hear what you all think about Tamales.  While Nashville has a great meat and three, spicy chicken, and soul food scene, there is no replacing the Mexican and South American food scene we have here in OKC. So keep them busy for me while I’m away, and  if you are ever in Nashville, I’ll meet you for some hot chicken.

When it comes to shady Oklahoma City dining the following rules have proven themselves accurate.  There is a positive correlation between Mexican food’s tastiness and its level of shadiness;  iron bars may seem cold and uninviting, but they apparently lock in flavor (I haven’t found a bad iron-clad restaurant yet);  breakfast is always the safest option at a shady diner; and while the tire barns that often surround these shady wonders seem like a good deal, the tires they sell are prone to blow out when you reach interstate speeds (sorry TD and Brent).

This month’s Shady Restaurant of the Month recipient has iron-clad windows, crime-ridden surroundings, a pawn shop across the street, and an endorsement from DAZ, the rapper.  Yes, the cousin of Snoop Dog is endorsing this month’s Shady Restaurant of the Month.  Well, maybe not, but there is a signed picture of him hanging in there, thanking them for the food.  Please welcome A Family Affair to the growing list of Oklahoma City’s shady yet tasty eateries.

A Family Affair is a soul food joint on the East side with a loyal following.  In fact, I found out about this place after I reviewed Florence’s and was immediately hit by the loyal A Family Affair coalition that was not shy about declaring this place the “soul food anchor of Oklahoma City.”  I respect their confidence.  Isn’t there a saying along the lines of “bring it strong or don’t bring it at all?”  DAZ may have rapped that for all I know, but I do think it’s true.  These guys were not shy about letting me know that they were a force to be reckoned with in the Oklahoma City soul food scene.

I’m not going to say that they are better or worse than Mama E’s, or that they bring bigger flavors than Florence’s, but I will tell you they hold their own as a legitimate satisfier of my soul food cravings.  You see, each of these places brings something different to the table.  A Family Affair brings all-you-can-eat soul food goodness at a great value ($8.50). Of course, it will likely shave a few years off your life with its assortment of deep fried meats, delicious fatty sides, salty vegetables, and rich desserts.  That’s not a slam to these guys at all, just a warning to those readers looking for a healthy meal.  Although, a meal of fried pork chops, mashed potatoes and gravy, macaroni and cheese, green beans, and corn bread hits all the major food groups right?

I’ll discuss the food, but you should really just go try it yourself.  They offer a salad bar to start (there you go, health nuts).  Progress through the line and you get to choose your favorite vegetables, which you serve yourself.  They have had green beans and macaroni and cheese every time I have gone (yes, macaroni and cheese is a vegetable — I mean, vegetarians can eat it, right? At least the non-vegan variety?).  They also usually have a rice dish, corn, a bean offering, and some sort of green.  Next, you move to the variety of fried meats that the nice ladies serve you.  I have had the fried catfish, fried chicken, fried shrimp, and fried pork chop.  Tim went with me this last time and had the chicken fried steak, which he gave two greasy thumbs up. They also have a few non-fried “meats” like spaghetti and neck bone, but only if you catch them on the right day. Oh, and remember that the mashed potatoes and brown gravy are on a separate table after you pass through the line.  Don’t make the critical error of passing these by.

As mentioned, prices here make a great value.  $8.50 gives you the all you can eat buffet option.  Perhaps an even better (and healthier) value is the “to go” option, which gets you a meat, a couple sides, and corn bread for the low low price of $5. That’s a great deal and it can help you avoid the temptation to over-eat everything on the buffet. You can also order off the menu and get various burgers and sandwiches, although I’ve never seen it done.

Tim also found a special coupon on the restaurant website, giving us half off our second buffet. Websites are a rarity amongst shady winners, but A Family Affair has one, complete with special offers. I can’t promise that offer will still be around when you check, but it’s worth a look just in case.

I recommend the fried pork chops.  They are a bit salty, but with great flavor.  Tim thought the chicken fried steak was a better option, describing it as extremely tender on the inside and super crispy on the outside. He rarely eats chicken fried steak so he can’t say if it’s the best in town, but he definitely enjoyed it here. The macaroni and cheese here is a little different than what most of the competition offers.  It’s a stovetop version, not a baked version, and it is loaded down with pepper.  I thought the pepper was great and really added a unique twist to the rich, classic dish.  I think Tim agreed, but to be honest, I had trouble understanding him as he moaned with delight on his third, or was it fourth, helping.

It is also important to know procedure here. When you go in for the first time, you might look around, perplexed for a minute, as I did. Don’t worry, it won’t be too long until one of the nice ladies will show you the ropes. But, you’ll be ahead of the curve as long as you know that you should just head straight to the buffet line and start loading up a plate. Then, find your table later. A waitress will bring you a drink after you sit down, and you can pay (yes, even by credit card) on your way out.

My only complaint is that A Family Affair doesn’t offer ice cream.  You can, however, get an icey grill next door.  I do not know if DAZ has ever been fitted for a grill next door or not.  Next time he and I hang out after a big rap session I’ll let you know what he says.

Why don’t you let us know what you think about A Family Affair in the comments.

I’m sure you are familiar with all those cliches about curiosity. You know, like “curiosity killed the cat.” Sure, curiosity steers me into lots of great shady finds all around the city, but this morbid curiosity sometimes bites me in the end. For example, sometimes curiosity causes me to reject steadfast rules. I recently broke the rule of “don’t eat at buffets, specifically seafood buffets, and even more specifically when that seafood buffet is not on the gulf coast but rather in Oklahoma.” I know — long rule.

Anyhow, I see Catfish Cabin every time I visit Leslie’s Pool Supply store next door. Unfortunately, I stopped at Leslie’s recently when I was really hungry and that bad painting of a dancing catfish on the outside window next door — the one that honestly looks more like a mutant seal — beckoned me to all-I-can-eat myself some catfish. What was weird when we walked in was that it felt like we were walking into a Chinese buffet. It had a fountain and those fold-up, asian-looking dividers. Then the smell of fried seafood filled the air and I was snapped back into reality.

It’s your typical seafood buffet with fried clams, fried shrimp, fried catfish bits, fried whole catfish, fried stuffed crabs, fried okra, fried potatoes, and so on. It’s kind of hit or miss on whether you get food that’s fresh out of the kitchen or the kind that’s been sitting under heat lamps for a while. The whole fried catfish that I had was actually pretty good, and I caught it as it was just being loaded on the bar. By the way, whole catfish is always fun to eat with the kids because you can wave the little fish skeleton at them and get a “that’s cool dad!” So, all-in-all, not a bad buffet.

On the other hand, it is still a buffet, and I don’t really like buffets. Mainly this is due to the hepatitis risk, and also the aggressive masses that push on you to move on down the line so they can fill their plates. Catfish Cabin had its fair share of the aggressive masses nearly reaching around me. I half-expected one of these folks to smash by face against the sneeze guard when I reached for the last roll. Fortunately, that didn’t happen.

I also had trouble stomaching the vegetables here. I’ve had a lot of bad mac and cheese in my day, but this mac and cheese made the stuff from KFC seem gourmet. I have a 6 year old, a 5 year old, and a 2 year old that wouldn’t touch this mac and cheese. That should tell you something.

On the plus side, the wait staff was great. They have a bunch of sweet little old ladies who you can’t help but like. Oh, and the desserts weren’t terrible. They were your standard buffet desserts — cobblers, puddings, and soft-serve ice cream. My kids love a place with the soft-serve machine. But next time we go out to eat just for the soft-serve, we will head to someplace like Jason’s Deli, and not here.

If you like paying $12 a person for an Oklahoma seafood buffet, then Catfish Cabin is for you. We’d love to hear from your side of the story in the comments. But for me, Catfish Cabin is nothing but a reminder to trust my past experience.

You see, this review isn’t about revealing new truth about all you can eat seafood buffets, but rather about offering a reminder to us all. We all learn culinary lessons in our life, but sometimes we need them reinforced so we don’t forget the sting of our mistakes which may have faded over time. So, remember the rules, and next time you see me at a shady diner about to order the five dollar T-bone, go ahead and stab me with your fork.

I know I missed the Shady Restaurant of the Month for April.  To make up for it, I am going to make a strong recommendation for this month’s shady offering. I’m even making a bold proclamation that you won’t find better authentic tacos anywhere else in the city.  I have probably eaten at every authentic taqueria in town and there is none better than Los Comales.  It lies on South Agnew just south of the Stockyards.  They are cash only (note: they now accept visa and mastercard), but if you are in a pinch, you can go next door to a particularly shady gas station where there is an ATM and some slot machines.  Does anyone really know what goes on with these gas station slot machines that say “for entertainment purposes only?” There is no way these dudes are in here on Friday’s spending their paychecks unless there is a chance to win some malt liquor … but I digress.

Los Comales is a taqueria, in true form.  That means no chips and no insulting cheese jelly.  While I am on the subject of insulting cheese jelly, why do Okla-Mex restaurants all over town serve this mysterious, watered down, clearly-not-cheese-based, jelly-like substance?  I would prefer they just come out and say “we don’t serve cheese dip for free you cheap-skate, pay for some good stuff” rather than to serve up these ramekins of puke-orange-colored flavorless goo. Oh, look, I digress again. Ok, back to the restaurant.

Los Comales has tacos, burritos, gorditas, tortas, enchiladas, quesadillas, and a few other specials that sometimes change.  I made a claim that they have the best tacos in town, and I think I am mostly correct.  Max Burger probably has the best “al pastor” tacos, but Los Comales has the best asada and lengua, plus their breakfast tacos are out of this world.

That’s right, I said breakfast tacos.  You don’t know what you are missing until you try some chorizo, potato, and egg tacos from this place.  What’s even better is that they serve them all day.  The breakfast burritos are fantastic as well.  Seriously, how can you top fried potatoes, onions, cheese, chorizo, and egg wrapped up in a tortilla?  I’ll tell you how — by dousing it in their delicious red sauce.

Tacos here price out a bit higher ($1.50 now $1.75) than the taco stands that occupy shady corners all over town, but hey, they have to pay rent, you know.  Plus, you get air-conditioning, cool tile floors, and graffiti-covered bathrooms, all of which come in handy on hot summer days when you don’t feel like standing in the hot sun to get your lengua fix.

The quesadillas here may be my favorite in town as well.  It’s hard to beat tasty carne asada chopped up, smothered in cheese, and fried on a griddle in a fresh tortilla.  I know, quesadillas may not be what you think of when you think authentic Mexican food, but who cares, these are good.  The only quesadillas in town that can compare are from Max Burger, and also Chef Parrott’s at Iguana Mexican Grill.

The gorditas are my favorite in town as well.  Theirs are on the thin side versus the thick and crispy side — more like what you would see from a street vendor or Tacos Los Desvelados.  I really like this style, though.  There isn’t anything here that isn’t good.  Just pick your meat (carne asada, pollo, lengua, chile verde or rojo, carnitas, or machaca; your method of delivery (taco, torta, gordita, etc.); and your garnish (red sauce, green sauce, lime).  I had not heard of machaca before. I discovered it is actually a re-hydrated, shredded beef and it is very tasty.  Thanks to my Hispanic food expert and friend, Aswado, for educating me on this one.

Los Comales is worth the trip to Stockyard City for those wanting a good taqueria experience.  If you are tired of being insulted by other “Mexican” joints in town offering bland flavors and “cheese” jelly, this will be a breath of fresh air (assuming there isn’t a cattle auction going on down the road, in which case you shouldn’t breathe too deeply).

The wonderful thing about Oklahoma City (and its truly remarkable lack of zoning structure), is that you can find shady eating all over — sometimes literally a block away from what would be considered “the good part of town.” I have been enjoying shady dining all over town these days, mostly thanks to you readers who faithfully recommend new shady places for me to try. This month’s shady award winner is going to come again from the East side. There are a lot of places I have yet to try on this stretch of road, but the bright orange trailer / shack where Geronimo’s lies just screamed out to me that shady dining could be found within.  Well, it may not have been an audible screaming voice, but with hand-painted, large, black, graffiti-esque, exterior signage saying “Fish” and “Donuts,” Geronimo’s voice might as well have been audible. I was too intrigued to pass it by.

That’s right, Geronimo’s is a small, bright-orange shack of a building beckoning passers-by to come try its donuts and fish. I have to admit, even I was a bit nervous walking into this one. The door is like a hinged patio screen door that has been replaced with rusty steel and bars. It doesn’t look like a mere mortal would be able to push it open as you approach it, but it swings open with ease. The always-packed parking lot eased my tensions and I busted on in, with a few shady companions. The first thing you see is an archaic display case that doubles as a serving counter.  Inside this case is a fairly large assortment of donuts, including some fairly large (read: huge) donuts. The menu is the old school ripple board with the little stuck-in letters advertising burgers, fish, and donuts. There are several fliers hung up advertising local fund raisers and Douglass High School sporting events. The other thing you immediately notice is there really isn’t anywhere to sit. There are a handful of chairs to sit in while you wait for your food, and there are a couple of stools that you can sit at along a very small bar by the window — room enough for maybe 3 or 4 people.

It’s worth sticking around and eating there at the bar. Have you seen the movie “Barbershop”? In the movie, there are the same dudes sitting around at a barber shop all day, chatting about who knows what, right?  Same thing here. You have a couple guys that are always there hanging out and just shooting the breeze, commenting on everyone that comes in and out (nothing negative, but quite often funny), and making your wait for a tasty burger pretty entertaining.  In fact, the last time I was there I learned all about the Douglass High School Football coach and how he is apparently one of the finest coaches in the country and also about how this girl who walked in apparently has lost a lot of weight since last time. There is a place to sit outside on what I like to call “patio seating East-side style.”  Very similar to the patio experience at the former Tom and Jerry’s except there is no fountain, no bistro furniture, and no mosaic-tiled walkway.  OK, I guess it’s really just a couple of picnic tables under a carport.  Regardless, on a nice spring day it’s probably a nice place to enjoy a Geronimo burger.

Speaking of the Geronimo burger, it is a burger with a slice of ham on it.  Nothing fancy, but it’s tasty.  These are little thin patties (probably frozen), but he does them up well.  His burgers are cheap, ranging from 2.50 to 3.50 depending on how you specify it.  He also has fried catfish which seems to be pretty fresh, and everyone agrees it’s pretty good.  You can of course get fries, fried okra, and jalapeno poppers.  Not a lot on the menu. Just very affordable burgers and fries. It’s nothing fancy, but they are rock-solid good burgers for just a couple of bucks. Don’t misinterpret what I am saying, please.  These are no Nic’s burgers that explode with flavor and shave a year off your life. They’re just good old-fashioned affordable burgers served in aluminum foil and a paper bag.

I also really like the donuts.  I’ve had his Texas-sized donuts as well as the regular size. I think they are fantastic, and they are fresh every day. They are fluffy and light and have a hint of lemon. My wife doesn’t like the lemony essence, but I think it’s a nice touch.

There isn’t a lot to write about regarding the food — I mean, it’s burgers, fish and donuts — but the atmosphere is as shady and wonderful as it gets.  You may see me sitting out on this patio, East-side style, once the weather warms up a little.  If you listen to anything I say, go get a donut, get a burger, and enjoy the conversation.  It’ll only cost you a couple of bucks, and you will have some awesome stories when you go back to the office after lunch. Please leave comments on your experiences. We are bound to get some good stories.

Well I found myself cruising around SW 59th again looking for some shady wonders and stumbled upon a not-so-shady but wonderful place called Jimmy’s Roundup Cafe.  There are lots of shady spots in the area around here. In fact, we had a gun pulled on us just down the road a few days ago, but that’s another review.  Jimmy’s lacks too many shady qualities to be part of the prestigious Shady Restaurant club, but it does have a lot of qualities that make it a fantastic place to eat on the south side of OKC.  Jimmy’s is family friendly, work lunch friendly, and very friendly to your stomach and taste buds.

Jimmy’s Round-Up Cafe has apparently been around for years and at multiple locations.  He had a few locations on the north side that are no longer there but has since consolidated to just one location.  Our first experience was fantastic.  We were immediately recognized as non-regulars, and that prompted a visit from Jimmy himself.  Jimmy was not afraid of his food or the quality.  He proceeded to sell me on the selection I should have and offered to buy it back from me if I wasn’t completely satisfied.  I respect that in a restaurant owner.

The decor has that good-ole’ country diner feel.  Dark wood beams cris-crossing around, decorated plates, plus a load of cowboy and country decorations.  They also have a crane machine to tempt you into spending several dollars in hopes of scoring that awesome 50 cent toy. And, of course, they have a couple candy dispensers.  My favorite non-food items in the place however are the fiber-optic ball caps!  That’s right, get your OU, OSU, or even Texas fiber-optic hat right at the register.  If they start selling Jimmy’s Round-Up fiber-optic merchandise you may see me sporting a new hat around town!

The food offerings are actually pretty diverse.  You have your standard country diner options (catfish, chicken fried steaks, burgers, and sandwiches), a fairly good-sized BBQ offering (claiming the tenderest ribs in town), and now some Mexican dishes as well.

I’ll start with what Jimmy sold me on.  It was a dish that consisted of tender cuts of beef covered in his signature BBQ sauce.  I was a little nervous, especially after the last couple of recommendations I’ve had, but this was a winner!  The cuts of beef in these types of dishes are usually left over from the previous “special” and drowned in a sauce to hide the flavor and help you break down all the un-chewable connective tissue.  Not in the case of Jimmy’s special.  This was fantastically tender, full of flavor, and accompanied by two home-style sides (I had fried okra that rivaled Pappy’s and mashed potatoes with gravy).  You also get a basket of homemade dinner rolls with every meal.  I like to dip my rolls in the little puddle of grease at the bottom of the cup of fried okra, but that’s just me.

As good as my meal was, however, the shining star at Jimmy’s is the chicken fried steak. I will put myself out there and claim it as the best in OKC.  I think it’s the best value in town, not to mention the best taste.  For $4.99 you get chicken fried steak, two sides, and a roll.  This chicken fried steak uses a very light batter, and it’s fork tender.  Amazing.  Too often the chicken fry’s in this town are heavy, thick batters — thicker than the cut of meat hidden inside. They also tend to be Texas-sized with a Texas price, and infused with all the flavors of the kitchen that have been dipped in the same grease. Not so here (oh, and don’t leave nasty comments about how Ann’s Chicken Fry is better until you have tried Jimmy’s).

There is a lot to try at Jimmy’s. There are other great deals including a Super Bowl Special for ribs (seasonal, of course) and all you can eat catfish for $9.99.  I may never get past the chicken fried steak again, but if you do, you may want to try the cinnamon rolls that are the size of my head.  And I have a big head.

There is a guy who sits right next to the cash register who is there every time I’m there, and apparently there for breakfast too.  Don’t take my word for it, ask him.  He will be happy to tell you about the great food offerings here.  Plus, if you can’t decide on what to eat, Jimmy will be happy to make personal recommendations and back them up with a guarantee.  The wait staff here is fantastic as well.  They are sold on what this place has to offer. The waiter we had last time spent so much time telling us how we should be bringing back friends and spreading the Jimmy’s Round-Up gospel that we accused him of being the owner and having the other Jimmy as a stunt double.  He said he was simply a loyal waiter and loved his job.  Refreshing huh?

Our only complaint comes from a friend who went there and had some serious confusion on the bill.  They have a lot of specials, and apparently can get confused on when something is on special price or not.  He really had to go around and around a few times with his bill to figure it out.  I have not had a bad experience personally.

Go try Jimmy’s Round-Up.  Take your family, take your co-workers, or take me!  You will find something here that you will find time to go back for, I guarantee it.  Like I said, I may never make it past the chicken fried steak, so please let us know what else is good here and any other thoughts on Jimmy’s in the comments.

I love those moments in life that are totally hyped up and then actually live up to the expectations.  That doesn’t happen often.  Sure, I’ve had those moments like the Broncos winning the Super Bowl, my first Metallica concert, and successfully potty training a child.  But in the world of shady dining, most often you are simply celebrating the small things like not getting hepatitis, or learning a new gang sign.  However, Florence’s was one of those shady moments that really lived up to the high expectations I had.

I first heard about Florence’s from a co-worker who said it was “as good as Mama E’s.”  I know, I told him to stop the crazy talk, but still, I had to see for myself.  I headed over the next day to find it just east of the Capitol between Kelly and MLK drive.  I nearly missed the building the first time by.  It has a very small sign, and the actual building itself looks more like one that would house a variety of liquors rather than tasty fried chicken.  The windows are iron-clad, the door is solid wood, the bricks are stained a nice shade of dingy, and the whole place lies right in the heart of one of the most crime-ridden streets in the city (according to OKCcrime.com).  In other words, it’s the perfect setting for some fantastic shady dining.

It’s what is inside the restaurant that got me excited.  Nice tables that have a certain country dining room feel, southern paintings and decorations, a dark green, hand-painted drop ceiling, and the heavenly smell of iron skillet cooking.  The menus are laminated descriptions of what can be cooked up from scratch for you complete with how long some of the dishes take to prepare.  Also striking is that every person in there (except me and my companions) were known by name — another sign of a great place.  I also like the blast of heat you get on a cold day when you open the door, but take note — the bathrooms are not heated.  I think the bathrooms are awesome, though.  They are the skinniest little rooms, and they are decorated like the bathroom in someone’s home.

All of this was exciting, but what I was anticipating most was skillet-fried chicken.  At Florence’s, you can get chicken, skillet fried steak (chicken fried), catfish, spaghetti, and a variety of sandwiches and burgers. Nearly everything has the option of fresh pan gravy. Yum.  I got the smothered chicken which is fried chicken with pan gravy poured all over it.  I was originally just ordering fried chicken, which is mentioned as their best seller. Then our waiter mentioned that smothered chicken is the same thing, just covered in gravy.  I nearly gave him a hug.

Of course, no soul food joint is complete without those lard-injected sides and cornbread.  I’m not a big cornbread fan, but theirs is moist and delicious.  Crumbly and moist seems like it would be impossible to create, but it truly has both traits.  Other options for sides are mashed potatoes, rice, greens, creamed corn, yams … etc.  I hate yams, but one of my shady companions swears these are the best he’s ever had.

I like that Florence’s offers reasonable portions, affordably priced.  Mama E’s is fantastic soul food as well, and a great value if you are feeding two. But, at Florence’s you can get an actual meal for one (meat and 3 sides) for $7.  No all you can drink Kool-Aid, but you can get sweet tea. Well, only if they haven’t had a rash of diabetics eating there as they said they had the day we were there.  We had to sweeten our own tea that day.  Well, I say “we,” but I had Dr. Pepper, of course.  And to further digress, the radio was playing all the favorite R&B hits of the 90′s.  I hadn’t heard “Somebody Rockin’ Knockin’ Da Boots” since 9th grade.  I kept anxiously awaiting the Humpty Dance, but sadly it never came on.

Anyway, I love skillet fried chicken.  If you haven’t ever had it then go to Florence’s and try it.  Actually, you should go regardless, but especially if you have never had skillet fried chicken.  There is something about food fried in a skillet.  I think part of it is when you cook in a skillet you are forced to make small batches so quality and attention to each order are required.  Also, pan frying eliminates the cross contamination of flavors that can happen in old oil.  There’s nothing worse than french fries that taste like fish.  Of course, the best part about a pan fry is that homemade pan gravy!  That’s right, gravy from the grease, not from a package or a jar.  I can’t help it, I love the little things in life.

If you are looking for some shady dining and some good, old-fashioned soul food, give Florence’s a try.  You will find that this place is as shady as they come on the outside, but like a true worthy winner of the Shady Restaurant of the Month award, it’ll win your heart when you step inside.  Sure, there is an element of danger here, but that’s just part of the fun.  With this place being so close to the Capitol, you might even see a shady politician or two.  Go try Florence’s for yourself and let us know what you think in the comments.

Having a penchant for trying all things shady, I’ve been excited about a couple of suggestions I received lately. The first was a recommendation of a place that serves fried pig ears, pigs feet, and Mexican donuts. That one will definitely be reviewed soon. The second was Big Johnson’s Highway Grill, home of the Big Johnson World Famous Trucker Burger! That name and claim had me anticipating lunch so much I barely got any work done all morning.

Big Johnson’s Highway Grill is joined to a gas station. When you walk in you get a great, shady diner feel complete with stained, tile floors and creepy, unsanitary bathrooms with malfunctioning soap dispensers. There’s a long bar where you can sit on a stool and make friends with other shady eaters that have a hankering for trucker burgers. If communal bar stool dining isn’t your thing, there are also tables and booths. We chose one around the corner with a good view of the nice, large, flat panel TV.  I’m starting to feel sorry for myself since I don’t have a flat panel TV at home. Even the shadiest spots in town are starting to broadcast news and sports in HD-capable, flat panel glory. Anyway …

The nice thing about shady spots joined to gas stations is that if the food is no good you can always go next door for beef jerky and an energy drink. Unfortunately, you may be more satisfied with the beef jerky than the menu items here at Big Johnson’s. The menu is typical diner fare — hot plates with various warm meats and sides, several fried options slathered in gravy, a handful of sandwich options, and its namesake — the Big Johnson World Famous Trucker Burger.

There is a danger in heaping praise on yourself. Declaring yourself as “world famous” is setting yourself up for undue scrutiny. I probably wouldn’t have thought twice about a shady place serving a frozen patty if it hadn’t been declared “world famous.”  Big Johnson’s uses one of those weird, uniformly mis-shapen patties.  You know, the ones that are neither round nor square, but rather created to be oddly asymmetrical in an attempt to fool the rubberneckers at neighboring tables into believing they are hand made. They’re not. So much for world fame.

I actually didn’t order the burger myself. My shady companions were already getting burgers and I was skeptical in the first place because mustache man from the Golden Touch Grill was eating one.  Big red flag.  Of course, I did get to observe them on my companions’ plates. They were paired with ordinary orders of fries.  Not bad looking plates, just not deserving of a world famous title.

So, what did I order since I didn’t go for the burger?  Well, I broke one of the rules of shady dining.  I took advice on what to eat from a truck stop waitress.  Believe me, I paid for my mistake. When I asked her what was best and heard, “Oh honey, the hot beef sandwich is unbelievable,” I should have resisted and ordered a corn dog.  Instead, I not only placed my order but also found myself anticipating my meal. The anticipation only increased the disappointment when I tasted it. It was obviously reheated from frozen meat.  The whole thing was completely covered in a dark, salt-jelly that posed as gravy and it was all served on top of a piece of soggy, white bread.  It really was terrible. On the bright side, I did play with the gravy for a while and was amused by the way it bounced.

Perhaps the most disappointing part of Big Johnson’s is the pricing.  It seemed pretty high considering its shadiness.  If dishes were three and four dollars, you could probably find some value here. But the food here is pricey by shady restaurant standards. I spent over $8 on my hot beef sandwich.  Chicken fry rings in at over $10, catfish for $8, and most everything else for $6 or $7. With prices like these, I just can’t recommend it when one can go to Nic’s Grill and experience a burger worthy of world fame with fries and a drink for around $7.

When it comes to shady atmosphere and quirky names, Big Johnson’s really has it all going on.  I just wish it offered a good value of flavor and price. I mean, come on, who wouldn’t love to announce to their coworkers, “I’m headed to Big Johnson’s for lunch, you want anything? Burger? Skoal? Jerky?”  I know that would make my day.

It’s possible that the breakfast at Big Johnson’s is good. Shady places often do breakfast right. I’ve just never tried it. Have you? Let me know what you think in the comments.

Editor’s note: This is the 100th restaurant review posted on EatAroundOKC.com. I thought it appropriate that review 100 would feature a Shady Restaurant of the Month, as Andrew’s shady series has so captured the heart of our city and brought fame to OKC’s culinary underbelly. Thank you, Andrew, for tirelessly braving Oklahoma City’s shady spots to bring us new adventures in dining. And thanks to all our writers and our readers for supporting us. Here’s to the next 100!

For this month’s Shady Restaurant selection, I wanted to stay away from the southwest side of town.  As shady and edible as the southwest is, I feel that other areas of Oklahoma City are being neglected.  This month, I am choosing a place on on a particularly shady stretch at the southern end of N. May Avenue.  This part of town is home to one of my favorite sports, pawn shopping.  Yes, it is a sport.  It is also home to a handful of delicious eateries.  Today, ladies and gentlemen, I present to you one of my personal favorites, Shish Kabab!

Shish Kabab Restaurant is just south of 36th, nestled between a Dunkin Donuts and a Blockbuster.  I know, pretty benign, but go another block south and you can get your supply of drug paraphernalia, stolen car stereos, and even that dirty Santa outfit you were wanting to sport at the company Christmas party.  If that’s not shady enough for you, come hang out at Shish Kabab on a Friday or Saturday night and smoke some hookah while you enjoy the belly dancing.

Ok, wait. I really don’t mean to imply that hookah pipes and belly dancing are, in and of themselves, shady activities. The truth is, they are both beautiful cultural art forms. But the point of my shady restaurant series is to introduce the average Oklahoma City resident to dining experiences they would normally be too scared to try. And trust me, hookah smoke and belly dancing scare plenty of people. But that’s too bad, because these irrational fears of shadiness only cause us to miss out on so many hidden treasures in our city. No more, I say! No more!

Ok, back to the review …

The food here is served buffet-style or menu-style.  I like the lunch buffet.  It is incredibly fresh plus they will bring you warm bread and fresh-out-of-the-pot kababs straight to your table as they are ready. Terrific!

The shish kabobs here are not what backyard BBQ Joe makes skewering a tough piece of sirloin and some veggies and cooking them just past well done. No, these are more like grilled meatloaf than steak.  At least the beef kababs are.  They are particularly good when you get a plate of fresh ones brought to your table with some warm pieces of flat bread on the side.

Apparently, you can also enjoy the buffet for dinner, I just haven’t been around here that late.  The hookah room is open in the evenings for you as well in case you like to chase your kebabs with a little flavored tobacco.

On the buffet, there are a variety of fantastic choices.  Honestly, I don’t know what they all are. I just know they are tasty.  There are several lentil dishes, rice dishes and chicken dishes.  There is usually a palao-type dish, which is the Middle East’s version of a meat combo rice (like America’s chicken and rice or Asia’s fried rice varieties).  Picture something like this.  There is also plenty of basmati rice, and several soupy dishes with a variety of different meats to spoon over it.  They also have a very tasty spaghetti that is always on the line.  I think it’s funny to eat spaghetti off a Middle Eastern buffet.  Food here is very Middle Eastern, by the way.  More Afghan and Persian than Turkish and Mediterranean.  To me, that means these dishes look more like Indian foods than the foods you would get at Zorbas or even ZamZam for that matter.

Aside from the food, there is lots of fun to be had at Shish Kabob. In the evenings, you can get your hookah fix here.  I still haven’t tried the hookah.  My Bangali friend, Rana, swears it is a tasty treat and I plan to join him one day and report back. Don’t feel like eating or smoking but still want to spend some money?  You are in luck!  They sell DirectTV packages with all your favorite Middle Eastern programing.  And, of course, there is always belly dancing, and from what I can tell, you are more than welcome to join in and show off your mad belly skills.

If you’re into shady people watching, you might be disappointed here. While most of our shady reviews feature a handful of interesting, shady characters, they are conspicuously absent at Shish Kabob. There’s not enough gravy here to attract Mustache Man or some of the shady guys who frequent Sydney’s. The waitresses here don’t stop to smoke between taking your drink order and bringing you your main course. So, in this respect, Shish Kabob is lacking in shadiness, but I think it makes up for it in other ways.

So, give Shish Kabob a try. To play it safe, swing by at lunch.  I think you will really like the buffet.  If you’re more adventuresome, check it out on a Friday night and you might catch me belly dancing after my first hookah experience.  Ok, probably not, but you’ll at least have a good time. And please, somebody … anybody … do some belly-dancing and then tell us all about it in the comments.  This has to happen.

PLEASE NOTE: This restaurant has changed it’s name to Original Fried Pie Place.

If you are like me you have probably seen Fulton’s Fried Pies for years now sitting just west of Portland on NW 50th.  I had just never been inside because I’m not a big dessert guy.  But then I heard they have breakfast, lunch and dinner pies.  This definitely piqued my interest so I finally got around to visiting them the other day.  What a pleasant surprise this place turned out to be!

The inside reminded me of a small donut shop so I instantly felt at home.  As you enter, you will find a display case full of pies that are only distinguishable by their labels.  There are two four-seater tables, a small coffee table with a few chairs, and a rack of free local newspaper offerings in case you want to sit down and read something while you snack.  This place is not particularly shady, but to get there you do have to drive past Coit’s Drive-In which could cause your stomach to wrench and send you into traumatic flashbacks of the time you were talked into eating there.

When you think “fried pie,” you probably think of a grease-saturated pastry with a pasty, super sweet filling.  That has always been my experience.  But the pies at Fulton’s are anything but greasy.  They start with a light, homemade puff pastry, stuff it with some filling, and fry it.  Pretty simple, but the secret is in this delicate, beautiful pastry.  If you’ve been disappointed by overworked, flavorless, hyper-dense dough in the past, you need to try Fulton’s and experience how delightful a fried pie crust can be.

While they do have an assortment of fruit pies and other dessert pies like chocolate, coconut cream, apricot, peach, cherry … etc., the lunch and dinner pies are what really make this place great for me. I mean, dessert pies are standards and, you know, a breakfast pie isn’t much of a stretch (who wouldn’t like a  combination of sausage, bacon, egg, and cheese wrapped up in a pastry). But, lunch and dinner pies, now that’s truly novel.

Think of them like … well … like hand-held pot pies.  Wait! That’s a bad comparison because if you are like me, pot pies of your past have consisted of a frozen vegetable mixture in a bad gravy topped with an overworked, tough pastry, or worse … canned biscuits.  Nevermind … get that out of your head.  Ok, now try to image if that pot pie of your past had tasted good … and if you could somehow hold it in your hand.  Mmmm … now that’s why I believe these fried, tender, flaky, stuffed pockets of goodness are truly a unique treasure in our city.

My lunch companions and I sampled six of the seven offerings.  Let’s walk through these.

First, the Tex-Mex pie was stuffed with beans, chili, and yellow cheese.  It’s like a chili burrito in a pastry shell.  Not the favorite of the crowd, but not bad.

Next, the chicken and broccoli pie was quite good.  Pretty familiar concept.  You see chicken broccoli and cheese stuffed into stuff all the time.  Good choice.  Also, the spinach, mushroom, and cheese pie presents a similarly tasty concept.

The beef and vegetable pie is like a traditional pot pie offering.  You know, stew wrapped in pastry. The BBQ pie was probably the least favorite. Not bad, but it was just kind of weird to have shredded beef barbeque and barbeque sauce in a pastry.

I think the shining star was the comfort food pie which features potato, cheese, and slices of polish sausage.  Fantastic.  What made it even better was the fact that it wasn’t sitting under the warmer ready for the lunch crowd.  They made this one fresh.  It was piping hot and plenty filling.

We also tried an assortment of dessert pies which you can top with a scoop of ice cream if you choose.  Dessert pies are what you would imagine. They taste like dessert pies.  I’m not a dessert guy, except for bananas foster and pumpkin pie which unfortunately they did not serve. But, regardless of your pie preference, there is certainly something here that will make you happy.

Now a word of warning. There are repercussions to eating loads of fried pies.  First, if you have a peanut allergy, these will kill you.  They are fried in 100% peanut oil.  Second, fried pies aren’t exactly light, healthy, foods.  These stick with you when you leave.  I don’t have the capacity to hold large quantities of food, so I’m a bad judge of filling capacity, but you can trust my lunch companions who will tell you that these are filling.  I think we were all less productive than normal after this lunch.  As always, eat fried meals in moderation.

But aside from the obvious dangers of consuming fatty foods wrapped in pastry and deep-fried, I can’t say anything bad about this place. There’s no doubt that tasty, unique morsels can be found inside. Plus, there are so many ways to try them. Pick up some breakfast pies on your way to the office and be an instant hit among your peers or direct reports. Indulge yourself with delicious and unique lunch and dinner pies. Or, simply stop by to have a dessert pie for an afternoon snack or to cap off a meal.  Whatever you choose, please leave us your comments and let us know what you think.

Hot dog. Is there any other two-word combination in the English language that triggers more memories and food emotions? Probably, but it is hard to deny the importance hot dogs have played in the culinary history and tradition of our country. Unfortunately, Oklahoma City does not have a lot of places to get a good coney, in my opinion. We just lost Dawg House to apparent lack of interest by the Oklahoma City masses, so Coney Island is one of the only predominantly hot dog establishments left in the metro.

Coney Island can be found in downtown as well as on Capitol Hill. According to their signs, they have been serving “red hot wieners since 1924.” I have heard they have been around longer, some say since 1918. Either way, there’s plenty of nostalgia here. Inside, you feel like you have hit a time portal. Coney Island takes you back to a time where there were no credit card readers, where air-conditioning was never set below an almost-comfortable 75 degrees, and where napkins and utensils were apparently a luxury.

You can’t deny that these guys are good stewards of their money. I have seen them take unused napkins off the tables and stuff them back into the dispensers. I’ve also watched them wash their plastic utensils by hand in a big sink (this creeps me out a little, so I just eat mine with my hands). To further their cost-cutting efforts, they frequently turn the lights off on sunny days and get by on natural light alone.

The walls are decorated with big jumbo pieces of paper that have every year’s Oklahoma University football schedule and each game’s results hand written in marker (ruler-lined in pencil so all the lines are nice and straight, of course). These date back to the 1930′s. They serve cafeteria style as you line up and tell them what you want. Be ready please, they are impatient.

When it comes to the food you have very few options. There are hot dogs ($1.25) that can be decorated with mustard, ketchup, onion, chili, and cheese (10 cents extra). Then, there’s the Greek spaghetti ($4.15) in the tradition of the Cincinnati chili fanatics. It’s a bowl of overcooked spaghetti with chili, onions, cheese (20 cents extra), and, in the case of the Coney Island guys, a couple of red hot wieners. There’s also a Frito chili pie ($2.15).

The chili here is really interesting. It’s served the Cincinnati way (allspice, cumin, cinnamon, cocoa powder, and no beans). Calling it “Greek spaghetti” is weird because everything I have ever read is that it was a Macedonian immigrant that brought this chili recipe to Cincinnati, not a Greek immigrant, but I digress.

Anyway, that’s about it on the food options.  You can also get a bag of chips, a fountain drink, or a cold beer. If you want more choices, you are out of luck.

So, how does it all taste? Eh … it’s ok. The hot dogs have bright red casings. Again, I think this is a nostalgia thing. Some people think if the casing is dyed red, it tastes better. I don’t get it. In fact, I think it’s weird. Aren’t there enough unnatural ingredients in hot dogs already? Why inject the casing with red #6 and #4? And didn’t we determine in the 70′s that this causes cancer?  I have never been a big fan of the flavors of anything here, but it’s not bad, and there’s plenty of nostalgia to go around. It is what it is — a place to get cheap hot dogs.

One of the members of my shady restaurant crew wants to visit Coney Island weekly and always cites times he went as a kid and how it used to be across the street in another building and so on. I think Lance (another shady companion) put it best when he said, “You aren’t going here to eat good food here, you are going to eat memories.” Pretty profound for a shady restaurant guy. I’ve had the spaghetti with hot dogs, and it’s really not bad, but then again I cover it up with cayenne pepper to mask the flavor. It’s messy and you’ll also end up announcing to the world that you just ate it with that inevitable chili stain on your clothing and the horrendous Greek onion chili breath.

The biggest fans I have found of Coney Island, though, are my kids. Kids aren’t picky when it comes to hot dogs, and they remember you taking them to the “hot dog store” as you build memories they can “eat” later in life. It’s worth choking down a few mediocre hot dogs for them, and it’s cheap, too. Just remember your cash, remember your kids, and leave time to stop by the pawn shops and Volkswagen part stores in the area. It’s actually a pretty good way to spend a Saturday afternoon.

Southwest 29th has long been a shady destination of mine.  It all started just east of Portland with Sydney’s Restaurant, and then continued east to the corner of May with 50′s cafe and El Regio Loco (which has since been spotted all over town).  Venturing further east, I found Max Burger off Western.  There are countless contenders for the shady honor along this stretch of road, dotted between the used car lots promising easy financing and the pawn shops offering to buy your gold fillings.  I owe it to a friend of mine for introducing me to Taqueria Los Desvelados, the latest purveyor of shadiness.  He is actually the same guy who introduced me to Nic’s Grill, so he will be automatically inducted into the shady hall of fame once it is created.

Taqueria Los Desvelados is in a very convenient location.  It is next to a Volkswagen repair shop and across the street from a rug and carpet store.  Further down the road on each side are used car lots, used tire and wheel swaps, and pawn shops.  It’s the perfect location because you were probably already driving by looking for an easy, no-hassle financing option for a used El Camino, which always stirs up a mean appetite.  Tacos Los Desvelados (as they have etched into their long bench tables) is full of flavorful ethnic authenticity, and surrounded by ultimate Oklahoma City shadiness.  What a perfect combination.  For all you real adventurers, try visiting late on a Saturday night while celebrating an OU victory.  You will find them serving delicious food until 3am on the weekends.

The decor is what you would expect in an authentic Mexican restaurant.  Bright orange and purple colors, pictures of Mexico, and cool chairs.  They have these big, picnic-table-style benches that have etched graffiti all over them in the front room, and in the side room a couple tables with cool chairs that look like this.  Also in this room is a ridiculously huge Mexican headdress.  Think this but 10 times bigger.  It is very light, though, as one of the waitresses showing it to us was able to lift it with one hand.  They also have a candy dispenser with a Mexican version of an M&M character, and one of those crane machines that you pay 50 cents to try and fish out a 25 cent prize.  You know, typical shady restaurant stuff.

The menu offers standard taqueria fare — tacos, burritos, tostadas, quesadillas, flautas … etc., stuffed with your favorite meats.  They have asada (steak), lengua (tongue), pastor (a seasoned pork meatloaf of sorts), chicken, barbacoa (beef head), and of course, buche (stomach), tripas (intestines), and chorizo (sausage).  Like any respectable taqueria, the tacos are traditionally served on corn tortillas with onion and cilantro and rolled up individually with a little parchment paper.

The gorditas are much bigger and thicker than those at the other taquerias in town.  I’m not sure if I like that or not.  I kind of like the thin gorditas as they seem easier to eat.  These are thick-cut corn “shells” (for lack of a better term) and according to those familiar with San Antonio street food, just like the gorditas in San Antonio.  They are made to be able to hold their fillings like a little fried sandwich and are absolutely packed with meat, beans, and flavor.

The enchiladas and flautas are topped with shredded lettuce, slices of tomatoes, and parmesan cheese.  The enchiladas have a tasty red chili sauce of some sort, and the flautas have a green tomatillo sauce.  In my opinion, they could both use a little kick so I usually sprinkle on some of the salsa that they bring out in those cool little Mocajete bowls with the little feet.

But unlike your typical taqueria, this is a full service restaurant. There are several dinner plates (with rice and beans on the side) including my new favorite dish — tacos derados. These are fried tacos.  They are stuffed with your choice of a crumbly goat cheese, or mashed potatoes (you read that right).  Not since those brilliant carnies at the state fair introduced fried mashed potatoes on a stick have I been so excited about a dish.  Now, if only they could stuff a taco with macaroni and cheese and deep fry it.  I wonder if they would take suggestions?

I always make a big deal when a restaurant serves one of my favorite meats, and yes, you can get goat here.  They serve a goat soup.  No, I haven’t tried it, mainly because soup isn’t my favorite means of sustenance.  I will try it when it gets colder. I wish they would serve goat tacos.  Finding goat, or even lamb, in this town is not easy.  Heck, I can understand squirrel (by the way, I have honestly thought of opening a fried squirrel restaurant — you think fried onion burgers are all the rage, wait till metro OKC sees the squirrel fries sweeping through the city) but lamb and goat are a main meat group in nearly every heavily populated culture in the world.  For now, you will have to settle for small morsels found in soups, stews and masalas in the ethnic eateries dotted across our metro.

One other thing — there is a pretty steep language barrier here, but that doesn’t stop them from being highly accommodating.  First off, we got an awesome tour of the restaurant and didn’t really even ask.  We got samples and descriptions of several items.  Also, my Bangali friend who was a little disturbed at not being served chips with our meal once brought this up to the waitress.  She asked, “Chips?  Like nacho or like tortilla?”  He said, “like tortilla.”  Next thing you know, she brings us out a basket of freshly cut pieces of corn tortilla that they fried up for us on the spot. Amazing!

Beverages range from the Mexican bottled coke (which tastes WAY better than American coke.  I think it’s sugar cane like the Dublin Dr. Pepper), cans of other beverages and cervezas, and flavored waters.  I find it interesting that these Mexican restaurants call what we call fruit juice “flavored water.”  Anyway, they have cantaloupe, a purple one that no one has been able to translate, and horchata.  If the assortment of beverages isn’t enough to provide relief to your taste buds still smarting from that pickled jalapeno, go next door to their paleteria (popsicle shop).  Our hostess gave us a tour of the place and a lot of samples from the paleteria.  She gave us a cup of what she called “crazy water.”  It was cucumber water and was surprisingly good, and very refreshing.  She also had celery water which I will never try because I hate celery, and a variety of other fruit waters.  These really are flavored waters.  They are not sweet like a juice.  The paletas were available in walnut, rice, mango, chocolate … etc.

Taqueria Los Desvelados is not the shadiest place I have ever reviewed.  Sure, from the outside it stirs up fear and uneasiness with the best of them, but inside you feel pretty comfortable except for a more difficult language barrier than many other Mexican restaurants in town.  As with all shady restaurants, I recommend to our shady novices to stick with daylight hours, but for the more experienced shady adventurists, Taqueria Los Desvelados lets you adventure late into the night.  After all, desvelados translates as “kept awake.”  So if you are “kept awake,” make sure you are not “kept hungry” and go have a late night burrito.  I can’t wait to hear what you think in the comments.

I love a good burger, and am actually pretty picky when it comes to burgers. I also like shady, hole-in-the-wall-type places.  Nic’s combines the best of both worlds with a fantastic burger prepared in a little building, a shack actually, just off NW 10th on Penn.

I like my burgers thicker than onion burgers, greasy, and full of meaty flavor. The problem with griddle-fried burgers is that often times they are very bland when they are not squashed down to typical onion burger thickness. In fact, I hate watching Oklahoma City’s onion fry chefs (I hear they are better in El Reno, but I don’t know from personal experience) get their big spatulas and then squish every last morsel of juice out of every patty they fry. I also hate watching friends do this when they are grilling burgers at home. My favorite part of a burger is all the flavorful beef juice that explodes into a cholesterol and fat-laden flavor bomb with every bite. Nic has figured out how to serve a big, beefy (dare I say manly?) burger without murdering it while it cooks.

I have actually been meaning to experience a Nic’s burger for myself for a long time now. The problem is that every time I drive by there are people lined out the door and there is no place to park. There are only 15 seats in the entire place — nine at the bar, where you get a front row seat to all the cooking action, and 3 two-seater tables along the back wall. I went at 11:20am and had no trouble claiming 2 bar stools, although Nic did say it was one of his slower days in quite some time.  By the time we left, it was standing room only. My advice is get there early, before the big lunch rush.  Apparently there is major to-go and call-in business here as well, so you have options.

Before I dive into the burger and fries I experienced, let me go over the menu.  Breakfast, burgers, and chicken fried steak.  No frilly salads, no fruit cups, no yogurt and raisin parfait, just different slabs and hunks of meat and eggs thrown on a griddle. That’s my kind of place. He does have a daily special of pork chops, meatloaf, or fried chicken, depending on the day. I can’t wait to say that I have tried them all. I love a griddle or pan fried chicken fried steak, so I can’t wait to try Nic’s. He seasons, lightly flours, then throws it on the griddle. Once it’s done it is plated, and then he goes around to a back room where he finds mashed potatoes and white gravy to cover everything in.  I have to admit, my eyes started to well with tears of joy when I first saw him do this.

The burgers are thrown on the grill in what appears to be 1/3 to 1/2 pound of meat.  I didn’t ask the exact weight as I was feeling a little verklempt after watching the chicken fry and the precision with which Nic fielded orders from patrons in seats, over the phone, and from standing, waiting to-go orders. The burger was covered with cheese, grilled onions, dressed to my specifications, and then piled onto a toasted bun. It was huge, sloppy, and extremely hot.

He also has hand-cut curly fries that are fried to each order. Sure, lots of places serve hand-cut fries, but Nic’s look better. They aren’t mushy and brown like you so often see.  They are crispy, golden, and fresh.  He doesn’t care about letting them sit and drain. He believes that hotter is better and throws them straight from the grease directly onto your plate.  The portion of fries is the size of a small child, and when paired with a burger it is a daunting task just to finish everything.

Nic, always looking to help curb coronary disease, does not serve a double burger.

A few comments I and my lunch companion made really help to sum up the experience.  My companion thanked me for making him experience a place like this. He had no idea the treasures you can find if you just take a risk and jump into some of these little dives to experience true Oklahoma City culture.  He is obviously not a regular shady companion, but after this experience, he may well be. My reaction to Nic’s was equally sincere. I believe I muttered something about this burger changing my life as I wiped tears from my eyes.

I would call Nic’s shady, but not so shady as to deserve the prestigious designation of “Shady Restaurant of the Month.”  To me, it has shady characteristics, but falls more into hole-in-the-wall status. We don’t want to cheapen the title given monthly to those truly shady places, so let’s just call Nic’s a great hole-in-the-wall with fantastic food.  Prepare yourself properly before going so you can maximize your experience. Arrive early, skip breakfast, and be prepared to either sneak a nap at work afterwards or to at least have access to a highly caffeinated beverage. I have a feeling you, like me, will agree this is the best burger in town.  Let us know what you think in the comments.

The goal of every shady pick is to find a tasty bit of food at a location the average person may never have the guts to try on their own.  This month’s pick, Macy’s Pancake House, was actually recommended by one of our shady-lovin’ readers. The only thing is, Macy’s Pancake House was sold, and the name changed.  It is now 44th Cafe Pancake House.  Actually, I think it’s really only called 44th Cafe, but Pancake House still is pasted down the pole so that is what I will call it.

I had been to 44th Cafe about a year ago (when it was Macy’s) and remembered it to be pretty good.  I decided to go back and try it again.  Sure, it’s pretty shady.  You will find 44th Cafe nestled snuggly among a long line of pawn shops and cash advance joints.  The pawn shop next door actually outfitted my Volkswagen with a new stereo not too long ago.  So, how shady is this stretch of road, you ask?  Well, Sydney’s Restaurant, the famed inaugural Shady Restaurant of the Month, chose to move just down the road at SW 44th and May.  I will miss the old location with its leaky awning and its requirement of unplugging the fan to plug in the credit card machine, but even places like Sydney’s are looking to advance themselves.

As nearly every shady restaurant does, 44th Cafe likes to proudly put pictures of their food on the sign outside.  I’m not sure what the reasoning is behind this is.  You would think the words “Cafe” and “Pancake House” would be enough to clue people in that there are delicious greasy morsels inside.  Maybe they simply want to be sure that the image of their food can transcend language. Who knows.

Inside, I was pleasantly surprised by the well-lit, air conditioned environment.  Smokers are segmented in a separate room and unsurprisingly, that room was full.  There was no one in the non-smoking area except for myself and my shady companions.  Also, if you were thinking about borrowing the proprietor’s phone for personal reasons, you’d better think again.  There is a big sign on the counter plainly stating “No More Personal Phone Calls.”  Lucky for me, I had my cell phone for emergencies.

After we looked over our menus, our waitress approached and broke down the options for us.  I appreciated her candid honesty.  “Breakfast is great!” she said.  I asked about the daily specials and she said, “Oh, they are all good!”  I asked if that was really the case given that all of the specials were under $5 and she clarified that wasn’t really the case.  She said the chicken fried steak is terrible, a frozen parts-is-parts patty.  She raved about the spaghetti, though.  We all decided to play it safe and order breakfast.  I say we played it safe, but a couple of my shady friends ignored my sage advice and ordered the breakfast steaks along with their eggs and home fries.  Please, hear my plea — never order a steak that costs less than $10.  $4.99 is seductive, but it’s bad news.  The breakfast “New York Strip” looked like a thin shave of arm steak, but I could be wrong.  Whatever it was, my repentant friend informed me it was terrible and tough.  On the other hand, the eggs, home fries, biscuits, gravy, and pancakes were all fantastic — and very affordable. 44the Cafe also offers diner staples like meatloaf, pot roast, beef tips, catfish, and burgers … etc. I think I’ll stick with breakfast, though.

One thing that stood out was the fact that everyone who came into this restaurant was known by name.  Clint (who I called “Mr. Suspenders”) came in and ordered while he walked into the smoking chamber.  He ordered like this — it was brilliant:

waitress: “Hi Clint, be right there with your coffee and the usual.”

Clint: (nods head and says something unintelligible while pulling on suspenders)

waitress: “Ok, I’ll make that iced tea.”

This was an amazing exchange of verbal and non-verbal communication.  I can only hope that one day I can go into a shady diner, mumble and tug on my sagging pants, and find that my waitress hears my message — which will inevitably be “extra gravy and Dr. Pepper please” — loud and clear.

I love ordaining a diner with the shady honor, especially when it is a reader recommendation.  44th Cafe is a particularly shady location with big flavors and personalities inside.  One of the waitresses swears that if you come back for dinner and order the ribeye, you won’t be disappointed.  She says you can cut it with a butter knife.  That proposition is too shady even for me, but if one of you dares to try it and survives, please post your comments.  Until next time, keep the shady requests coming, and don’t be afraid to visit some of these places for yourselves.

As a rule, choosing the Shady Restaurant of the Month is far from easy. Perhaps what once stood out as an abnormality in my pre-conditioned culinary mind has simply become the norm. You see, I eat at shady dives and taco stands nearly every day now, so having one stand out as particularly more shady than the others is becoming more of a challenge. This time, though, the decision came fast and clear. The moment I heard myself actually say out loud, “wow, I’m eating goat meat in a gas station … and it’s delicious!” — that was the moment I knew I had a winner.

JRS Travel Center sits on the corner of Reno and Martin Luther King Avenue. Many a trucker stops here for a fill up and an energy drink, but it’s what is going on in the attached restaurant that will keep me coming back. When we first walked in, there was a sign for Corky’s Grill and a big picture of a nauseating star-shaped burger patty. Everyone has unfortunately experienced one of these unnaturally misshapen mystery meat patties at one time or another. I think the last one I had was at the hospital after my last kid was born. These can be tricky because everyone else is eating them and it makes you want to believe that they aren’t rancid, but it’s never the case. Thankfully, Corky’s has been bought out by an enterprising group of Indian chefs who have turned it into a tandoor grill.

The interior is awesome! The entire menu from Corky’s remains above the counter as well as all of the old signs advertising it’s American truck stop fare. You’ll need to ignore the Corky’s menu. Sorry for the inconvenience to all of you looking for a frozen chicken fried steak with fake gravy. They have draped some bright-colored cloths on the walls to give that distinct Indian feel, but then you sit down in booths that make you feel like you’re eating at Carl’s Jr. OK, maybe Carl’s Jr. in New Delhi.

Of course, a mismatched interior is what shady dining is all about. We’re looking for the place that can surprise us by delivering taste far beyond the expectations set up by appearances. And in the taste department, Tandoor is getting it right.

Tandoor Restaurant delivers the culture, spice, and flavor of Indian cuisine to all those daring enough to try something new. They will gladly show you a beat-up, laminated menu of what they really serve. I didn’t need a menu. When we walked in there was a dry-erase board with a big, bold proclamation:

“Now serving Halal goat!”

I knew what I was getting. No, it’s not because I’m a practicing Muslim needing to follow Halal standards, but rather because I’m a sucker for goat meat. The choices ranged from curries, to masalas, to biryani dishes. For those of you who have never experienced a biryani dish (and that used to include me), imagine an Indian version of fried rice. Indian food purists will surely mock my description. Speaking of Indian food purists … since visiting Tandoor, I have mentioned this place to various India natives and those friends of mine who have traveled extensively in India, and they all say this is one of their favorite places in town. Apparently, I’ve been out of the loop. The buffets in town surely don’t do Indian food this type of justice.

Anyway, I really enjoyed the flavor of the goat biryani. It really heated up as I went though. I found myself wishing I had ordered a Dr. Pepper with my meal this time. Talk about a hidden spiciness, this dish really creeps up on you. The only drawback of this particular selection was picking all of the goat bones out of my mouth. They are basically stewing the goat meat in a pressure cooker so that you get that marrowy, gelatin goodness in the stock. This makes it very tasty, but also means bones are going to break down and sometimes be small enough to hide under piles of rice. That, as well as the whole cloves, made it a little tedious to chew. I’m sure you can safely chew up and swallow these items, but I wasn’t in the mood for how this could have affected my digestive tract over the following few hours so I chose to discard these pieces as politely as I could.

My shady companions got a range of other biryani dishes and curries. We were not prepared for the level of spice. These dishes get warm quickly. However, fantastic flavors accompany that heat and they make the temporary palate-pain well worth it. I, for one, love the explosion of flavor that comes with saffron, clove, and other Indian spice staples.

Perhaps the highlight of the food was the naan. Naan is an unleavened bread found all across the Middle East and into India. It resembles pita bread, but it is much softer and infused with more flavors. They served a garlic naan which had cloves of garlic woven artfully through the dough. It was out of this world. The smell of roasted garlic enveloped our table and made our mouths water. We also ordered plain naan and onion naan. They were both very good. It was like naan other naan I have ever had. Ha!

You do need to be aware of the pricing and the size of the dishes here. The prices were quite high, ranging from $7 to $12, depending on the dish. My goat dish was $11 after tax and I declined the beverage. The good news is that these dishes could feed two or three people comfortably. I think the best course of action is to take six to eight people and order four or five dishes, in essence making your own buffet. I can promise it will be much more tasty than any buffet you have ever had, and less likely to spread disease (depending on who you invite to eat with you, of course).

The shady experience at Tandoor Restaurant will provide you with good food, good fun, and the ability to pick up a pack of cigarettes, an energy drink, and one of those cool, mesh-backed trucker caps with the clever sayings on your way out. Bring an appetite, be prepared for a little spice, and get ready for what is perhaps the best Indian food in the city. But don’t take my word for it, go try it yourself. Let us know what you think in the comments.

I’ve been wanting to try Cafe Nova for some time now, but a few things have kept me away. First, it isn’t a kid friendly place, and I have a ton of kids. Second, they have a lunch menu, but I don’t have time very often for long, relaxed lunches. So, I’ve been waiting for a good opportunity to get out and try it. Well, I finally had another anniversary, and therefore a reason to dump the kids with someone else while my wife and I enjoyed a nice, relaxing dinner. So, we tried Cafe Nova and … well … I really want to like it, but it just falls short.

The problem is they are billing themselves as a premier dining location in Oklahoma City (with prices to match) and that’s going to bring them a higher level of scrutiny. To support this image, they’ve got to be hitting on all cylinders and for me, while there are a lot of things I like about the place, there is still a lot left to be desired. For my money, I’ll be looking elsewhere for a premium experience.

Among the things I do like is the atmosphere. Cafe Nova is a lot like the other eclectic eateries along the artsy stretch on north Western Avenue. Lots of stainless steel, black tablecloths, big, artsy glass panels, and local artists’ paintings on display. It appears that their logo is an Elk. Not sure why. They have an Elk skull (at least I think it’s an Elk, I’m not an expert on big game skulls) hanging behind the chic bar area. They also have a couple of large flat-panels displaying images of clouds and sky. Seems like a waste of money to spend thousands on flat-panels just to put pictures of clouds on them, but hey, it’s not my money (well, I guess it is when I get the bill).

Anyway, we got there around 5:45-ish, hoping to beat the dinner rush. Boy did we! There was only one other party in there besides us. I asked the server where everyone was and he said that the dinner crowd would kick in later. Not sure where they were because they never showed up, even when we were leaving close to 7. The food was pretty good, not fantastic, but pretty good. The service was great (then again, it’s not hard to give one table good service) and the atmosphere was nice. So where was everyone? Is the economy making a play on the small dinner crowds? I’m not convinced of that because, from my dinner table, I could watch throngs of people outside parking and walking down the street to a bustling Sushi Neko. At any rate, we were able to get personal consultation from our waiter and make our selections in peace and quiet, that’s for sure.

The waiter emphatically recommended two dishes, the tilapia and the Tournedos Oscar. I was leaning towards the Tournedos Oscar in the first place. One thing I love about filet medallions is that they are usually fork tender and, since they are nearly bite-sized, you get a larger proportion of tasty sear per bite than you do on a normal steak.

While we waited for our main courses we decided to try the lump crab quesadilla. Far and away, this was the best choice of the night. The quesadilla consisted of lump crab with fresh baby spinach leaves and goat cheese in a very tender, pan-fried flour tortilla. It was fantastic. It was paired with a mayonnaise-based dipping sauce that had bits of roasted pepper, garlic, and a tart and peppery finish that paired well with the sweet crab. Fresh bread was brought out as well with an oil and balsamic vinegar dipping sauce, although unfortunately they overdid the balsamic vinegar portion of the suspension. No amuse bouche here like you get at Tom and Jerry’s or Deep Fork. Too bad. I think the amuse bouche gives a chef the opportunity to really showcase his or her skill.

The main courses had great presentations. The pecan-crusted tilapia was served atop a bed of spinach risotto and decorated with a tomato vinaigrette. My wife said it was “pretty good.” She wished she had gotten the seared ahi tuna instead. To the chef’s credit though, it’s much harder to make a tilapia dance on your tongue than it is a sushi-grade chunk of ahi tuna. God made ahi tuna taste good sliced right off the fish. You have to really work at messing it up.

The Tournedos Oscar featured chunks of filet and lump crab presented atop a bed of mashed potatoes and decorated with fried spinach leaves. The description said that it would also have a Bearnaise sauce, but I could not detect the Bearnaise. Instead, it seemed more like a cheesy cream sauce (and a soft, nutty cheese at that, perhaps with some brie in it).

I was disappointed with the filet medallions on a couple fronts. First, there was no sear. They almost appeared braised in sauce rather than pan-seared. Second, they were extremely fatty. So fatty in places, in fact, that I looked around in a panic a couple times for a place to dispose of the hunks of connective tissue I was unable to masticate. I tried “Fletcherizing” my food by chewing 32 times … but still no progress. I finally had to swallow them like pills. This happened more than once. Sure, there were some tender medallions too, but the tough ones made me a little apprehensive to go after many more.

The fried spinach leaves were interesting. They were crisp and they had a kind of nutty flavor. I didn’t really like the sauce. It had a flavor in the background that I wasn’t very fond of. It wasn’t bad, it was just a flavor that I didn’t like. I had my wife try to figure it out, too. That’s when I began wishing I had tried the Berkshire pork chops or the shrimp scampi.

I really wanted to like everything about this place. Like I said, good atmosphere, and they deliver a contemporary American cuisine in the “cool” part of town. I’m just not sold on Cafe Nova being one of the premier spots in Oklahoma City. When you’re a higher-end restaurant charging a premium for every plate, you’ve got to stand up to a much greater degree of scrutiny, and I think Cafe Nova just falls a little short. On the other hand, I will be back though for those crab quesadillas. Pair one of those up with a bowl of soup or a salad and you could get in and out with a reasonable bill and a very tasty experience.

What do you think? Let us know in the comments.

PLEASE NOTE: Brown Suga Cafe is no longer in business.

If there is one thing I love yet often have trouble finding in Oklahoma City, it’s good old fashioned soul food. Soul food is a Southern-style (not Oklahoma / Texas southwestern southern, but deep-south southern) of cooking that typically marries wonderful ingredients such as lard, butter, and gravy to create tasty dishes that many people refer to as “comfort food.” Brown Suga Cafe is located on the North side of town off 122nd and May hoping to, as they put it, “put a little class in your soul.”

Brown Suga Cafe was actually recommended to me by one of our loyal readers. I had already written about one of my favorite restaurants in town, Mama E’s, when it was suggested that I give Brown Suga a try. When I pulled up, I saw a clean building, a bright and well presented sign, bistro-type outside seating, and inside a nice-looking counter to which you walk up and order. The menu was about what you would expect: chicken, pork chops, roast beef … etc. Unfortunately, the Saturday special of chicken and waffles had a big black line through it. That was disappointing.

Side items were typical as well including green beans, macaroni and cheese, greens, candied yams, and so on. Desserts were cobbler, banana pudding, and German chocolate cake. According to a sign I saw, I had just missed the Brown Suga sponsored event, “Hair Explosion 2008.” I’m always just a bit too late to these advertised events. I was a week late to the “Booty Shakin’ Contest” at Max Burger, I was a day behind the news when Starbucks was giving out free cups of its tasty new Pike’s Peak roast, and now I missed Hair Explosion 2008 by just a couple of days. What luck.

Anyhow, let me tell you about the food. I had to try the namesake, brown suga chicken. It was really good with a sweet brown sugar crust, savory spices, fine seasoning, and it was perfectly cooked. Now, I will tell you I had a friend go at night once and say that the brown suga chicken was a little dried out, as if it had been in a warmer all day. However, that was definitely not the case with my experience. It was tasty, tender, juicy, and fresh. That same friend also said that the collard greens were the best he had ever had. He went on and on about them. Since I hate collard greens I am taking his word for it. I know, lots of people love greens … sorry, I don’t. I hate black eyed peas too, in case you want to start making a list.

For my sides, I tried the macaroni and cheese and green beans. I liked the green beans. They were cooked with bacon and onions and were not cooked to death (although I do like green beans cooked to death too). The macaroni and cheese was not bad, but not my favorite. It appeared to be a stove-top-style mac and cheese rather than a baked mac and cheese. I like it best baked. My favorite place to get baked mac and cheese is in Nashville at Dan’s Grill. In fact, I always made such a big deal about the dish that Mama Dan would invite me back to the kitchen so I could watch them make it. It involved a lot of lard and cheese and it brought tears to my eyes every time. Lard, by the way, gets a bad name. Did you know it has less saturated fat than butter? With all the stink regarding trans-fatty acids, maybe we will see a rebirth of lard. We can always hope.

Wow, that was a bit off-topic. Anyway, last but not least, the meal came with Brown Suga cornbread. I’m not sure if that means it has brown sugar in it or not, but if it did I couldn’t tell. It just tasted like corn bread to me.

So, the food is pretty good, but I also have a few concerns right out of the gate. First, it is hard to get out of there for less than $10 per person. Now, I understand economics. Heck, I have a degree in economics, and I know that NW 122nd and May is not exactly SW 29th and May from a rent perspective. I know they have to pay for their location and cover their skyrocketing food costs. Still, $10 a plate could be tough to overcome, especially when I was the only person there at noon on a Saturday.

Which brings me to my second concern, there was nobody else there. Maybe they have a dynamic business going during the week which would help to ease my concern, but this lack of patronage definitely stood out to me.

Finally, their to-go meal did not come with forks, napkins, or anything. No big deal for me since I needed to stop at 7-11 for a cold can of Dr. Pepper anyway so I just picked it all up there. But this is something to check on if you need utensils. My guess is they have them if you ask.

Despite these concerns, Brown Suga has a lot to offer — pretty good food (from the limited sample I tried and counting on some reports from others), a really good location, and a cuisine that appeals to a broad demographic. Are they the best soul food in town? No. That crown, in my humble opinion, goes to Mama E’s. On the other hand, their mantra of “put a little class in your soul” seems to hold true. These dishes are presented a little more upscale than what I am used to with soul food. A clean, safe, and well-lit dining area is also a bonus (and quite a departure from my normal dining excursions).

So, if you are located on the northwest side of town (or just less inclined to shadiness) and looking for some soul cuisine, Brown Suga might be just what you’re after. Give it a try and please let us know what you think in the comments.

To the drive-by reader, the title “Shady Restaurant of the Month” may appear insulting, but shady-lovers everywhere know the truth. It is a distinguished honor and a true privilege to earn this title. To receive the “Shady Restaurant of the Month” award, an establishment must not only provide tasty fare, but also it must be bold, daring, adventuresome, and willing to flex its culinary muscles in a less than desirable location, under less than desirable conditions. Plus, it must remain steadfast in its calling as the higher-end restaurant snobs turn their nose up and speed by on their way to whatever “safe” food they can find served in a polished interior. Anyway, today we bestow this high honor on Taqueria Sanchez.

Taqueria Sanchez is located 5000-ish NW 23rd in Oklahoma City. I say “ish” because they move around a bit. On the weekends, they are usually in the parking lot of the auto repair shop on the corner, but during the week, they seem to move to whatever parking lot lets them sit there the longest.

PLEASE NOTE: Since this review was published, Taqueria Sanchez appears to have moved to near the 4000 block of NW 10th Street.

Speaking of mobile taco stands, I read that Los Angeles is about to pass a law keeping these mobile trucks of goodness from sitting in one spot for more than an hour at a time. This will ruin their businesses. Apparently, local brick and mortar restaurants put pressure on governments to pass such laws because these mobile delights, with no rent and little overhead, have an advantage over the traditional sit down establishment. Let’s hope that the entrepreneurial masa artists in Oklahoma City are not similarly restricted.

I usually eat at taco stands a couple of times each week. They are cheap, convenient, and they offer a level of taco, burrito, and gordita goodness that most restaurants in town only dream of. I like Taqueria Sanchez in particular because they have a really flavorful chicken taco. The al pastor isn’t bad either, but it’s nothing like Max Burger. You can also get carne asada, lengua, barbacoa (occasionally), and you get to choose whether you want them in the form of tacos, burritos, mulitas (best described as corn tortilla quesadillas), quesadillas, or tortas (Mexican sandwiches).

The prices are great. You can have tacos for $1, burritos for $4, or mulitas for $2. Whatever you choose, it’s a great value, but you really get the best bang for your buck with the burrito. It’s $4, but keep in mind this includes tax, and it is big enough to be a meal in itself. Stuffed with rice, beans, meat, cilantro, and hot sauce, you won’t need more than one.

I also encourage you to move beyond chicken or beef. Try the lengua. Sure, it’s tongue, but you can’t say you don’t like it until you try it. It has a real beefy flavor, like roast beef. It’s very tender. Plus, it’s fun to see little taste buds on the chunks of meat. A friend of mine refuses to eat it saying he won’t eat food that can taste him. He’s a wimp. Also, the tripas (Mexican chitterlings) aren’t bad, although I prefer them in soupy dishes rather than tacos.

If you need an icy-cold beverage and can’t wait to get a can of Dr. Pepper when you get back home, try the flavor of Jarritos. It’s the first national soft drink brand of Mexico. It features lots of fruity flavors if that’s your cup of tea. I’d stick with Dr. Pepper, but Sanchez doesn’t sell it.

In a way, the goal of this review is to encourage you to eat at any taco stand you can find. There are hundreds throughout the Oklahoma City metro, each with a unique flavor and offering. Plus, their shadiness cannot be questioned. Sure, there have been accusations of these stands having sub-par health ratings, as was reported in Nashville, but I don’t believe it. I think these stands offer great food at great prices. If you turn your noses up at them, you are passing up the opportunity to introduce your palate to so many fresh and unique flavors.

Oklahoma City, it’s time to celebrate the shadiness of ordering food while standing on a street corner. Give it a try, and let us know what you think in the comments.

PLEASE NOTE: Tom and Jerry’s is no longer in business.

Anytime I am asked about my favorite restaurants in Oklahoma City, I am stumped. I have several “favorites.” I usually have the person clarify the question to narrow down the results. If the inquisitor is in search of finer dining options, I will tell them that Tom and Jerry’s Steak and Fish Grille is near the top of my list. It is fine dining, but not too expensive or snooty. They have diverse menu options, and they can customize their service to adapt to your schedule if needed.

I like to eat well at a finer establishment on occasion. Sure, I have been known to brave the not-so-well -known places throughout the city, but I can also go for an upscale meal — something without blaring music or flat panel TVs where there is not a ketchup bottle or one of those insulting steak sauce bottles anywhere in the building. Tom and Jerry’s is just the place. It is not a kid-friendly place. So, if you are like me (and the old woman who lives in a shoe) you’d better call the babysitter before you set out for Tom and Jerry’s.

Fresh flowers and candles adorn every table. The sound of the resident jazz sax player fills the air (at a soothing level), and the artwork of Thomas Batista (one of the owners) decorates the walls and invites patrons to purchase their favorites and take them home for themselves (I’ve noticed a lot of restaurants in the area do this from Cheever’s to Classen Grill, but do the artists ever sell anything? Just wondering). The atmosphere is one of elegance and sophistication. They also have a nice patio area with a small water garden. It’s great for those warm spring evenings.

The waitstaff here really caters to your needs, but in a way that isn’t abrasive or pushy. I had a reservation the other night, and I had to keep calling and pushing it back and finally Scott, the maitre d’, told me to quit worrying about it and just get there when I could and he would make sure he had a table ready. This was on a Friday night too, not a dead Tuesday evening. I found this level of accommodation refreshing.

Once you order and you’re waiting on your main course, Tom and Jerry’s likes to present you with an “amuse bouche,” French for “mouth amuser.” It’s a small little tease, normally with a concentration of flavor, to spark the appetite and prepare the palate for the main event (Deep Fork also always seems to do this well). This time we were presented with a roasted pepper and radicchio something or other on a small sliver of roasted potato. I could have eaten a tray of these but my wife didn’t like it at all. She doesn’t like roasted pepper, though.

When you look over the dinner menu, you don’t get four pages of options but rather a single page consisting of 8 to 10 main dishes, a handful of appetizers, and a tapas menu. I like this. This allows the chef to concentrate on making a few dishes very well, which can really translate to higher quality. The menu rotates, but typically features a couple steak options (normally a filet dish and a strip, T-bone, or Ribeye), a fish dish or two, duck breast, and a couple comfort-food-type choices like a fried chicken with truffle sauce, or a gourmet meatloaf. Tapas and Paella are also served for those wanting a Spanish experience. I’m not aware of another restaurant in town offering tapas or paella. Tapas are the new rage, especially among the urban youngsters hopping from restaurant to restaurant for cocktails and these small, Spanish-influenced appetizers. I’m not sure if it is catching on in Oklahoma City yet (there’s not a lot of restaurant hopping involved here), but if it ever does, Tom and Jerry’s is ready to lead the charge.

On my most recent visit, I chose the green peppercorn New York Strip with a cognac glaze, and my wife had the seared Ahi Tuna. Both were fantastic. The strip was perfectly cooked medium-rare and decorated with garlic and green peppercorns. Green peppercorns can really be a nice accent to a steak. They are very aromatic and they have a completely different, and brighter, flavor than their fermented brothers, black peppercorns. The cognac sauce was sweet and flavorful. You could smell the cognac reduction and it was particularly good on the sauteed potatoes that were served al dente along with some roasted asparagus.

My wife’s tuna was served on a bed of thin rice noodles. I have had their pasta before as well, and these guys can make a great cream sauce. I’m a big fan of sauces and Tom and Jerry’s goes the distance with some interesting sauces and reductions often featuring exotic Spanish and even South American influenced flavors. This is definitely not your average steakhouse.

I think Tom and Jerry’s fills a role in Oklahoma City as a comfortable yet fine dining experience. It has a smaller, more independent feel than some of the larger restaurant groups. So, next time you are looking for that nice yet comfortable evening out with a local flair, give Tom and Jerry’s a try. It won’t break the bank or insult the taste buds. Let me know what you think.