Fung’s Kitchen: Chinese, dim sum, BBQ and seafood in a new locale

by | January 27, 2010 | 31 Comments


Fung's Kitchen

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3231 N. Classen Blvd.
Oklahoma City, OK 73118

Fung's Kitchen

In the search for the best Chinese food in town, I think I’ve narrowed my choice down to three restaurants: Chow’s, Golden Phoenix and the newly reopened and relocated Fung’s Kitchen.

In what was last Crawdaddy’s and before that Pizza Hut, Fung’s Kitchen has done a fine job of renovating the interior, but they still need to do something about the out-of-place pier decking in front. Perhaps they can expand to have some outdoor dining when the weather is nicer.

As one of our readers mentioned in our comments section on another post, you can tell a good Chinese restaurant by the quality of its chopsticks.  I’m glad to report that Fung’s Kitchen has nice chopsticks and even goes so far as to include a ceramic stand for the spoon and chopsticks.

Before I go any further in this review, I must mention that the best way to truly enjoy restaurants like this is by coming with your entire family or a large group of friends. I made the mistake of ordering just the Bitter Melon Spare Ribs Hot Pot ($9.95) for dinner the other day. It was served with a bowl of rice and was good up until I was halfway done when the bitterness really started to shine through. If this were shared along with 4-6 other dishes I’m sure I wouldn’t have had the same flavors stagnating in my mouth. The dish is made of slow-cooked pork spare ribs in a black bean sauce with ginger and an herb garnish and the pork was quite tasty. I also liked how the ginger helped break up some of the bitterness towards the end.

Another time I went to Fung’s I was with just one friend. We ordered the Crab Meat and Asparagus Soup ($7.95) to start and had the Roast Duck and Roast Chicken 2 Choice BBQ Combo ($9.95) and Soft Shell Crab in Salt and Hot Pepper ($12.95). I’m not sure if the chef had a cold that day or something, but all the food seemed really bland. What made things worse is that the salt and pepper shakers have such miniscule holes that I had to literally use my entire body to get a few crystals of salt and specks of pepper out of them. Being a somewhat sodium-conscious person, I like how the food wasn’t overly salted and that I can flavor my food to taste. However, for my own sanity, I hope my next visit doesn’t require me to look like I’m having convulsions to add salt and pepper to my food.

Even with the two of us, I felt that we didn’t have the variety of dishes I typically enjoy at family-style places like Fung’s. The soup was large enough to feed at least four people. The asparagus in it isn’t your typical grocery store variety. This is the more yellowish variety and is more bitter in flavor. I’m hoping to try the West Lake Beef and Egg Swirl Soup ($6.95) the next time I visit.

The BBQ combo comes out as a plate of just meat. No sauces or garnishes, just straight meat. While on the topic of BBQ meats, this place is similar to Golden Phoenix where they have a glass display showing off the hanging cuts of pig, duck and chicken. Some might be turned off by it, but it makes me salivate every time I pass by the display.

I was really looking forward to the soft shell crab, but was a bit disappointed because it wasn’t what I was expecting it to be. I was hoping for the dish to be a like a saucy-spicy garlic mixture with salted and fried crabs like I’ve had before in San Francisco and L.A. Instead, it was just salted and fried soft shell crab with slivers of hot chili peppers. Despite my failed expectations, this was by far the most flavorful of the dishes I had that day.

Now, the biggest treat is that Fung’s also offers Dim Sum on the weekends. To get in the mood for dim sum, I like to play this song on my way to eating it. It’s really all about the dim sum carts if you’re going to eat dim sum. Not only do those carts help keep the food warm, but they also keep the food moist. At Grand House, servers bring the plates out directly from the kitchen, and if they’re walking around the whole place with no interested diners, the food gets old and stale — not very appetizing. Because of this, I never even bothered eating dim sum in OKC because it tended to be cold, dry and way too salty. Now that Fung’s Kitchen is offering a dim sum alternative with carts, I’m pretty sure I’ll be eating it more often.

If you’re not into the whole dim sum thing and you decide to crave some food here, don’t worry, you can order off the regular menu as well.

Well, that’s my Fung’s experience. In spite of a few disappointments here and there, I still consider it one of my favorites for authentic Chinese in OKC. I look forward to returning with a larger group to experience a larger sharing of different tastes. Have you been to Fung’s? How was your experience? Tell us what you’ve tried and what you thought about it in the comment below.

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This article was posted by Sam Lee on Wednesday, January 27th, 2010. It is filed under:

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  • Kelly says:
    January 27th, 2010 at 8:42 pm   

    Shh! Don’t tell everyone about this fantastic place!

    My husband and I went the other day for lunch. My lamb with green onions was sooo tasty. And their portions were pretty big – I managed to stretch this meal into 4 servings, with rice.
    When we found out they served peking duck, we went back that weekend with group of friends and ordered A LOT of food.
    The food is good. The servers are extremely nice. And the place is clean, which counts for a lot. Oh, and the prices are reasonable! I would go there every week, if I could get someone to go with me.

  • Cult of Nobody says:
    January 27th, 2010 at 9:33 pm   

    I knew as soon as I saw the chopsticks that Fung’s was going to be good.

    I have only been there once and I wasn’t feeling particularly adventurous so I played it safe and I had potstickers and lo mein.

    The potstickers were good and the quality chopsticks made them really easy to pick up, dunk, and eat.

    The low mein was nicely portioned and some of the better lo mein I have had in OKC. The veggies were al dente and the beef was tender.

    I had the same experience with the pepper shaker. The pepper is to big for the holes so I just popped the rubber stopper out of the bottom and poured some in my hand to sprinkle over my food.

    I wish I knew more about Chinese BBQ as I’ve never tried it. Maybe some day when I’m feeling more adventurous I’ll give it a shot.

  • Cindy says:
    January 28th, 2010 at 10:01 am   

    I love Fungs! I try and take people who haven’t been there whenever I get the chance because it’s so tasty and they have a great variety on the menu. It’s become my go-to place for carry out too because they get everything ready to go within 15 minutes and it’s very close to the house. It’s much faster to call there and go pick it up than it is to get chinese delivered from somewhere else (in my experience).

  • steve says:
    January 30th, 2010 at 11:04 pm   

    fungs is nice — irregardless of the chop sticks the duck tongue was good. the oysters were large and juicy. service was good – the hot pots are good. dim sum — blah blah — otherwise nevertheless — x

  • Daniel says:
    February 2nd, 2010 at 6:28 am   

    I travel often and always try to find the best Dim Sum houses and you’re right, Grand House is pretty damn weak, but I didn’t make the connection w/ the lack of carts, thanks for bringing it up. And where did you find that song, that’s classic! I’ll check this place out this weekend.

    P.S. Steve (above me), sorry for the public correction, but “irregardless” is not a word, just thought you would want to know that.

  • Robert says:
    February 2nd, 2010 at 9:47 am   

    I have been there with friends who think that Chinese Food is buffet style Beef w/ Broccoli or Sweet and Sour Chicken and completely blew their minds with tasting of their black pepper scallops. They also have very reasonable lunch specials and their location, much like Grand House, makes it a good lunch stop for either the downtown or Chesapeake crowd.

    They even have a small “Low Fat” section of their menu with steamed vegetable dishes!

    PS: Daniel, just because something is “nonstandard” English, doesn’t mean it’s not a word in casual American lexicon:

  • The Traveler says:
    February 3rd, 2010 at 2:01 pm   

    I went to Fung’s for lunch today with some friends. None of us had been there before so it was a new adventure for all. We had the lettuce wraps as a appetizer where were very good, lots of meat. Then we each tried the clay pots. The food was very fresh and very good quality ingredients. Each of the pots were boiling when served at the table. We all agreed that we are definitely coming back to explore the menu!

  • Maneki Neko says:
    February 5th, 2010 at 2:44 pm   

    5 stars! After reading your review, I just had to get take-out from Fung’s today. I ate at the old 23rd location once a couple years ago, but I only got soup & rice so I really missed out on some good stuff! I had no idea how extensive their menu is. And OMG those fried oysters are HUGE! So delish, maybe the best fried oysters I have eaten in OKC. I also got the shrimp wonton noodle soup which was quite good. Oh, and by the way I too love, love, love the Golden Phoenix. I have been eating there for years. Such great food & friendly people! They own the Asian grocery store next door too, I get a lot of my produce there.

  • Jennifer says:
    February 5th, 2010 at 7:08 pm   

    I also love Fung’s. I think their lunch menu is a great value. Service is excellent and they did a wonderful job with the interior. It is a lovely dining atmosphere. Has anyone tried their Dim Sum? I would love to know the cost/how it works there. We used to go Grand House but with our four kids that has gotten too expensive. Is Fung’s cheaper?

  • Sam says:
    February 5th, 2010 at 7:42 pm   

    Hi Jennifer. I’ve had their dim sum twice now and both times I’ve gone I’ve spent around $20 and was pretty full. Like all real dim sum places you get a slip of paper with I think 3 columns. Each column represents different tiers of pricing. Depending on what you order the server will mark on the paper the cost of the dish. Large vegetable plates like the steamed chinese broccoli are on the expensive end. The rice noodle sheets filled with 1 or 2 shrimps or the shui mai are on the cheaper end (I think).

    Anyway, try it out once and report back with your findings.

  • Jennifer says:
    February 8th, 2010 at 3:48 pm   

    Thanks, Sam. My hubby and I will have to try it out.

  • JuJu Beans says:
    February 9th, 2010 at 9:03 am   

    Thanks for the post. I’m glad to know there’s a better dim sum place than Grand House, because Grand House wasn’t that great. Thanks again!

  • Anon Reader Dude says:
    February 11th, 2010 at 12:28 pm   

    Extremely tasty dim sum! I think it beats Grand House on that front.

    I have also tried a few of the lunch/dinner entrees at Fung’s — interesting ingredients and good preparation.

    It’s a nice addition to the area.

  • KC says:
    February 19th, 2010 at 12:10 pm   

    Staff was super friendly and we were seated quickly. The decor was nice and had a homely feel. However, dim sum was average tasting and completely overpriced (how on earth can four shiumai be considered a “large”, or $3.45?). Also, for the first 20 minutes only pork buns and fried taro root were available, so we had to wait for dumplings, rices, etc. But after the 20 minutes wait there seemed to be a good variety. Overall: nice place for the newbie but experienced dim-summers could be disappointed.

  • Tony says:
    February 20th, 2010 at 9:53 am   

    I like going to this place for family dining. We are able order many different types of food. I like eating their whole fried fish, flounder or sea bass, served with black bean sauce. I’m glad to see that they moved from 23rd to be on Classen and a better facility. I haven’t tried their dim sum, but will soon.

  • Lara says:
    February 23rd, 2010 at 6:50 pm   

    My experience with Fung’s has been above average, but still not better than Golden Phoenix. Perhaps this is because I haven’t tried ordering family style, where I could taste different flavors from different dishes, since most everything I’ve tried has a one-note flavor. I appreciate Fung’s for the consistent freshness of its vegetable and seafood dishes (bok choy and steamed mussels are always solid choices), willingness to omit MSG at the customer’s request, and commitment to simple, traditional preparation.

    After reading this article, though, I probably won’t try their dim sum. When I first heard the buzz, I imagined dim sum carts circulating the room, which is the only way I’ve ever been served dim sum, in NYC and Hong Kong for example. For me, ordering off a menu detracts from the authentic dim sum experience because part of the fun is eyeing the chow and pointing to things that you can’t pronounce or identify, but are willing to try anyway. So here’s to hoping that Fung’s dim sum will cultivate a following significant enough for them to offer cart-service in the future.

  • Sam says:
    February 23rd, 2010 at 9:32 pm   

    Hi Lara, Fung’s does use the steam carts, at least the last 2 times I went there. It’s Grand House that doesn’t use carts.

  • Kevin says:
    March 1st, 2010 at 6:43 am   

    Hope they exceed all expectations.
    I sometimes feel old PH buildings must come
    with a curse, because the businesses which try to rehab the structure often don’t thrive.

    Definitely sounds worth the trip.

  • Sam says:
    March 1st, 2010 at 2:53 pm   

    mmmm, had the Hunan Beef and Shrimp/Eggplant dishes and they were delish! Oh! and they definitely had the steam cart rolling around.

  • Tim says:
    March 2nd, 2010 at 6:31 am   

    I finally made it here for lunch last week. I’ve been trying to get my head around the “authentic Chinese” experience for a few months now and haven’t had much luck. But, I’ve mostly been getting things take out from Chow’s and Golden Phoenix.

    Sam told me it’s really best enjoyed at the restaurant and family style where you order a bunch of things and share. So, finally got to try with that way with a couple of friends and he was right.

    We had the seafood hot pot, roast duck on rice, and the sacha beef with snow peas. The duck was one of the lunch specials so a great deal at $6.95. The other two were not lunch menu items and so were closer to $10 each. Still lots of food and everything was great. Well presented, good temperature, and good flavors. I definitely think dining in and sharing is the way to go.

  • Maneki Neko says:
    March 31st, 2010 at 1:42 pm   

    FYI They do not take American Express!

  • Kathy Dinh says:
    May 18th, 2010 at 9:24 am   

    There’s not alot to choose from in their dim sum, but what they have is delicious. I’m just too used to the big dim sum restaurants in Texas. Very yummy and the service is great.

  • Sam says:
    May 18th, 2010 at 3:10 pm   

    Even though they may not have the largest dim sum selection (the place is really small in comparison to traditional Dim Sum places) the option to order food from the regular menu kinda makes up for it. I think I need to do a Fung’s run soon!

  • Kelli says:
    August 14th, 2010 at 8:04 pm   

    I have been to Fung’s several times, both at the old location and the new one. I have a friend who was turned off by the ducks and other animals in the window, but it makes me feel like I’m in a place way more authentic than Grand House or Panda Express.

    We ended up there on a Sunday once and had the Dim Sum. The carts came around and the server kindly explained everything to us. He moved to the other side of the cart and said, “You might not like this, it’s a little more…Asian…” which made us laugh and when he told us what it was, we politely declined! Good to know you can get the regular menu. I find Dim Sum to be a bit expensive.

  • Zombii says:
    September 4th, 2010 at 5:14 pm   

    I went to Fung’s last week on the spur of the moment and was totally rewarded. Their roast duck and pork is amazing. That crispy skin on the pork must be what everybody drools over when talking about cracklins and what not. I’ve been to pig roasts before, but have never had such crispy delicious skin. And the duck? *swoon* Amazing.

    I’ve already planned out my next visit (definitely going to be a weekend) to try out the dim sum. I’ve never had dim sum before, but a “I’ll try almost everything at least once” attitude should help me go far. It was nice to see that the night I went was mostly made up of actual Chinese/Vietnamese people. Asian restaurants with too many white folks dining tend to spook me off. I hate watered down bland food make for Americans. Thankfully Fung’s has plenty of delicious stuff on the menu outside of orange chicken. ;) (Not that there is anything wrong with orange chicken, but you know what I mean ;))

  • JuJu Beans says:
    September 9th, 2010 at 10:09 am   

    I like the food on the menu, but me and three of my friends were highly disappointed in their dim sum. Everything was either wrapped in gelatin with no flavour or fried in batter with no flavour. I mean I love simplicity when it comes to food, but this was just bland. However, the shrimp shumai was decent. Oh well, I guess the saying is true.. ‘you get what you pay for’ and this definitely was very cheap and very disappointing.

  • JuJu Beans says:
    September 9th, 2010 at 10:21 am   

    I forgot to mention that we had to wait several minutes each time to even get food! The carts weren’t moving around rapidly like the other places I’ve been to out of state. We wanted more food, but they only came around three times!

  • Rick says:
    September 25th, 2010 at 1:08 pm   

    Five of my friends and I went to Fung’s last night, and we really enjoyed it. When we walked in, there were probably only two other tables occupied, which was surprising to me considering we got there around 7pm on a Friday night.

    After ordering our drinks, our waitress was very helpful in making suggestions for a few of the guys that weren’t familiar with Chinese food that isn’t as Americanized as they’re used to. We ordered some appetizers to start things off: fried squid, two orders of spring rolls, and the crab rangoons. Each of the appetizers, especially the squid, were worth their weight in gold. I haven’t had squid that good since my 2 year tour in northern Japan.

    Again per our waitress’ suggestion, we decided to order family style, meaning that everybody orders a dish which is then shared with everyone at the table. We ordered and feasted on pan-fried noodles with chicken, spicy pork short ribs, peppered steak, sweet and sour pork, and the triple delight (seafood). After it was all said and done with, our bill was just under $70, meaning that we only spent around $12/person before tip.

    Great food at a great price. What else could you ask for? Needless to say, my friends and I are fans and we plan on going back very soon.

  • Zombii says:
    October 5th, 2010 at 11:25 pm   

    I forgot to reply back about my dim sum adventures! Mostly the verdict is: “Damnit, let him finish telling you what’s on the cart before you say ‘ok!’” Didn’t get to try all the things that were on my list to try (like their bbq buns), but did try stomach for the first time. Yeah…about that. It wasn’t bad, it really wasn’t, and texture aside it might have been tasty, but that day my stomach was already a little borderline and that was probably a mistake. I didn’t get sick or anything, just had some nausea before eating and didn’t wanna push it with “weird food.” So I ate about a quarter of it and took the rest home.

    The meat pies? Get them. As soon as you see the dude (or chick) with the tray? Ask for a meat pie…or maybe it’s called a pork pie? Either way, it’s meat in a flaky pastry crust. De-li-cious.

    The noodley meat dish we grabbed could’ve done with a little more flavor, like some chili heat or something. The shrimp thingies were good (what looked like mashed up shrimp n’ stuff in a noodley little basket? ugh…should have remembered the name), the potstickers were just ok, and the lotus dessert (looks like a bird’s nest or something) is worth getting too. It wasn’t sweet, exactly, but interestingly good.

    For my first ever dim sum experience it was awesome and on my list of something to do again! Next time with more people so we can get more stuff.

  • Zombii says:
    October 5th, 2010 at 11:26 pm   

    Oh…wait, maybe it was taro root, not lotus? Anyway, it was a weird little oval shaped fried ball thingie that resembled a rolled up bird’s nest.

  • Monica B says:
    March 17th, 2011 at 11:58 am   

    Fungs is such a surprise. I got Dim Sum at Grand House and it was what I expected in Oklahoma City. Then I passed Fungs and had to try it. What a nice surprise and Oklahoma City is coming into the 20 century even though we are now in the 21st but Oklahoma is trying to catch up.

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